Appreciating culture
Sana Chaudhry
Appropriating Culture vs. Appreciating Culture; where is the line?Robert. That was the name given to Paul Smith’s version of the peshawari chappal , priced at a cool £300. What one would expect, hearing the name Robert, would be a smart, lace up shoe made from finest leather; the epitome of the modern, English man. I mean it certainly came with the price tag of one. However, what we got instead was a something that looked more like a Rizwan than a Robert.
Saying that the designer shoe bears a slight resemblance to the chappals worn by men all across Pakistan would be an understatement. The design adds only a thin stripe of neon leather on the sole, the lack of which would make it look exactly like the chappals our fathers and brothers wear every time Eid rolls around. Naturally the fashion designer faced backlash from the online community. But, one would argue, isn’t imitation the greatest form of flattery?
Not in this case. Allow me to introduce to you the concept of cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation, as defined by a quick Google search, is the adoption or use of elements of one culture by members of a different culture. Basically, elements of a minority culture are adopted by members of a majority culture, thereby stripping them of their context and identity. In the case of Robert, by failing to acknowledge that the design was inspired by Pakistani indigenous footwear, Paul Smith appropriated the culture and craft of its original makers.
What makes cultural appropriation wrong, you may ask? The answer is simple; you are reducing the culture to being nothing more than exotic as well as dehumanizing those who belong to that culture. Often times you are taking elements that have a certain context and meaning, sometimes using them in a manner that others would consider offensive. Furthermore it serves the purpose of reinforcing stereotypes, homogenising a group of people by portraying them all as the same. And lastly, it is reducing somebody’s cultural heritage into nothing more than a fashion statement.
Most recently there was an outcry over Coldplay and Beyonce’s music video for ‘Hymn For The Weekend’ which showed the band traipsing around the slums of India and the songstress clad in a sari and henna tattoos. Again an entire country and its population were reduced to nothing more than an “exotic playground” where there is poverty around every corner and people play holi every day.
‘The Paul Smith issue’ was hardly a blip on radar when you think about it. Cultural appropriation is a common habit that most of us indulge in. Whether it be adopting certain aesthetic values or choosing to dress in a certain manner, all of us are guilty. And that is something that is unavoidable. The very nature of culture itself is fluid, meaning that people living in different parts of the world may share cultural similarities. It then becomes our duty to be aware of the impact of our actions.
21st century is the age of information. There really is no excuse for ignorance at this point. Cultures will always have crossovers, but there still remains a fine line between appreciating and appropriating.